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Poinsettias

· IRRITANT WARNING:  Of the Euphorbias, the poinsettia is one of the least poisonous plants.  Most poisonous plants contain resins in the sap that are the cause of skin or stomach irritations.  Use caution when handling the plant - you may be sensitive. The plant secrets its sap whenever it is injured (cut, broken, etc.). Use gloves that are disposable or washable if you intend to prune your poinsettia.  To be safe, never allow children or pets to 'sample' any part of the plant. Symptoms of poison reaction include skin irritation or blistering, abdominal pain, nausea and/or vomiting and diarrhea.

Page was last updated:
28 December, 2005

HISTORY: The poinsettia was discovered by Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett in the late 1820's while assigned as United States ambassador to Mexico (1825 to 1829). Even though the Poinsettia was ultimately assigned to the genus Euphorbia, poinsettia is the name everyone has come to use for the plant that has become a favorite Christmas-season house plant. VITAL STATISTICS: Euphorbia pulcherrima grows to be a large shrub, sometimes to 10 feet in frost free zones. It does especially well in more tropical gardens.  Commercial growers use dwarfing chemicals (B-9) to control its' size and stimulate early blooming for winter holiday container growing.  However, the plant may start to revert to its natural size after blooms have faded. The actual flowers of these plants are the small yellow flowers at the center of the colored leaves known as bracts. COLORS: The bracts may be pink, peach, cream, red, white or yellow-green. The flowers are usually yellow.  Sometimes the bracts/flowers of the paler varieties last the longest - occasionally till early spring. CULTIVATION: Keep your potted poinsettia in a sunny window, preferably southeast or southwest with a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight each day.  Poinsettias don't like sudden temperature changes so keep them away from drafts and out of entry areas that would cool when doors are opened. They thrive when temperatures are between 60o and 70o F consequently they wouldn't do well in the highest point in a room or near heat vents.  If your home humidity is below 30%, you may need to place a container of water nearby to improve the plant's environment. The plant likes an evenly moist soil but somewhat drier after the blooms have faded.  Water regularly and thoroughly when-ever the soil surface feels dry to the touch. As soon as water barely seeps out of the bottom of the pot, it has enough but don't allow the container to stand in water.  If the plant starts getting leggy, pinch back ½" of the central stem. (Note the Irritant Warning above.) Red bract color can be improved by feeding a diluted high Nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks.  Discontinue fertilization if leaves start to drop. Wilted leaves are a sign of too much or too little water or exposure to drafts. If the leaves yellow, you may not have a sunny enough location, or you have over-watered or under fed (lack of nitrogen) your plant.  (See Pests below for information about yellow sticky leaves.) Don't over-react if you have any of the symptoms noted above.  Make small adjustments so as not to 'shock' the plant. RETAINING POINSETTIAS: To keep your plant beyond this season, cut off the spent flowers (Note the Irritant Warning above) and stop watering almost entirely.  Don't under-water to the point that the stem shrivels.  Move the plant to a dark, cooler place - about 50 o to 55o F. In the spring water thoroughly, prune back the entire plant to about 4 to 8 inches (Again, note the Irritant Warning above) and place in a warm location. Don't place the potted plant outdoors until temperatures have stabilized.  One soil mix you could use is a mix of 6 parts light potting soil, one part each sand, leaf mold, and dried cow manure.  Another is 1 to 2 parts sphagnum peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part sterilized loam, and 1 part clean coarse sand or Perlite.  Apply flowering-plant fertilizer monthly at half strength from spring through fall. Poinsettias have a vigorous root system so watch for roots exposing themselves through the container drain holes. PROPAGATION: Poinsettias are not the easiest plants to propagate but worth a try for the adventurous.  Be sure to note the Irritant Warning above if you're sensitive. You may propagate new plants for summer containers by taking cuttings from new growth when the shoots are about 4 inches long.  (Spring pruning & watering, warming, new growth, then cuttings.)  Roots will develop best when your propa-gation set-up is kept at a minimum temperature of 65 o - 70 o F.  When roots have formed, pot the plants and place in a warm (over 60 o F) area. Your container grown poinsettia may become too tall for indoor growing the following winter and heavy pruning to control summer growth may result in smaller bracts. You can take cuttings from the new growth of stems in the late summer mak-ing sure that the stem section contains 4 or 5 buds sites. FORCING BLOOMS: If you kept last winter's poinsettia or started your own from last year's plant, it should be back indoors by late September or early October depending on your climate.  Poinsettias require 8 weeks of short days (less than 10 hours of daylight) before they'll bloom.  In mid-September or early October begin covering the plant from 5 PM till 8 AM each day.  Don't miss a day or lessen the time it's covered or you may severely delay or completely miss the bloom.  You may use a large box or supported opaque plastic but it must not allow any light through. Stop covering when the top leaves start to turn color. Waiting till the bracts are fully developed before allowing normal light, will increase chances of seasonal blooms. PESTS: Whiteflies are a common problem with poinsettias. Symptoms include yellow sticky foliage and they may become covered with a black mold which grows on the honeydew secreted by the whiteflies.  To test for infestation, give the stem a shake.  If a white cloud develops around the plant, you have whiteflies.  You can use sticky traps hung near or above the plant to monitor for whiteflies.  These will also help control the pest population. Use a yellow card (file folders are great) covered with an insect adhesive such as Tanglefoot.   Use caution as poinsettias can be easily damaged by spraying insecticides.           Remedies for infestation: · Gently vacuum off the insects from leaves and soil. · Wipe leaves with cotton dipped in diluted alcohol. · Spray with insecticidal soap. · Spray with water solution in which mashed garlic has soaked. · Dig kelp meal into the soil and spray foliage with liquid kelp. DISEASE: Gray mold is one potential problem.  This is different than the black mold that develops on the honeydew of the whiteflies.  To correct the problem move the plant to a warmer, dryer location. © Copyright 2000, Katie Long. All rights reserved.

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